Pastures New

Well hello again, it's been a little while and much has happened.

Am now in Phitsanulok, about 180 miles or so north of Bangkok. Glad to get out of that place, it was eating me and my wallet alive... suddenly everything's about half the price it was there.

The last night in Bangkok I spent with Yo at a club in the basement of a posh hotel in Siam Square (the flash shopping area), watching the capital's beautiful people and quite a lot of foreign guests butt-shaking to a half Thai/Israeli (I think)/American hip-hop crew rapping over sped-up pop and reggae. A particular highlight was the Eminem-lookalike lead rapper, dressed in a Celtic shirt, rapping in what I think was Hindi... makes perfect sense really.

Got to Lopburi the day before yesterday and was almost immediately mugged... by monkeys! They're one of the 2 most famous things about the place, and one of the reasons why I went. But let me state unequivocally and for the record, they are little ****s - made the mistake of putting my bag and water bottle down and within 30 secs had 3 of the little sods on my bag and my bottle disappearing over the horizon. The attendant guy had to chase them off, I was too scared of getting bitten (they've attacked tourists before and I don't fancy another rabies jab anytime soon - and yes obviously I'm also the proverbial big girl's blouse). It is quite a weird sight seeing them crawling all over 400-year-old ruins (the other famous thing about Lop Buri, and why I'd still recommend it) and over telephone wires, lamp-posts, buildings etc, but after the first 5 minutes the novelty wears off and Michael from Alan Partridge's approach starts to look appealing. The ruins are fantastic though, especially those of the old royal palace. 17th century, gorgeous red brick and stucco set amid beautifully-tended lush green grass - went in the morning and almost had the place to myself: very peaceful and a great antidote to the frenzy that seems to characterize a lot of city life here. Photos up soon.

Got here by express train yesterday, through a vast waterscape - the central plain, the lowest part of the country (sea level), water almost as far as the eye can see with tiny villages and buildings on stilts appearing out of nowhere and disappearing again in a flash.

Last night was a bit 'eventful' again - saw the night market, tried to find a bar recommended in Lonely Planet (ubiquitous here: it's been a bit galling seeing 2 other backpackers with exactly the same book clutched in their hands, going to exactly the same places) when I got called over by a bunch of guys sitting around in one of what look like security guard lodges that you see all over the place here. They were very friendly, sat me down, gave me a beer, chatted about their king and football, didn't know where the bar I asked about was but all seemed to be going well - then the oldest one suddenly came out with 'I don't want to sleep alone tonight'. I said 'Ah'. The main chatter kissed me on both cheeks (of my face I mean) and said in broken English that they loved me. Which ordinarily would be nice, but by this point I was, not to put too fine a point on it, sh*tting it.

Said I had to go and the older guy tried to pay me to stay, literally shoving notes at me, but I managed to make my excuses and squeeze out. To be fair to them they didn't try anything else, thank Christ - 5 blokes and I don't even know the Thai for 'Help!', I wouldn't have stood a chance - and I scarpered, honour and sphincter intact. Bit of a close call though, would rather be ripped off for a billion baht by ping-pong merchants than get gang-banged...

Today I'll be studiously avoiding that area and checking out another couple of wats (temples) - they're supposed to have the second most famous Buddha in the country here - then getting the bus to Sukhotai for more ruins (I love 'em). More when I have it. Bye for now.