Departure

Newsflash: I finally got out of Chiang Mai, no really... Am back in Bangkok now. Flew in last night (I know flying's sort of cheating, but sod it, I'd already done the route once and didn't fancy a smelly 12-hour coach journey back with a bunch of blokes from Bromley), I'd forgotten how much the place smells! It's all I can do to hang onto my yellow curry breakfast (I grant you that may have been asking for trouble). Never mind, I'm out again tonight - getting a 6pm bus and ferry combo to the shimmering south. Ko Tao, supposed to be as beautiful as Samui without quite so many tourists. Hope so.
Said goodbye to Aor last night at the airport; heartstrings tugged, but we both always knew we didn't have long. Summer's lease and all that. My last night in Chiang Mai we went to see the Yee Peng floating lantern ceremony - about 30 minutes' drive out of town: a massive crowd, all with paper lanterns, lit and allowed to float away simultaneously. Within a minute, as the highest lanterns got caught by airstreams, you got a a sort of wheeling effect produced: felt as if we were at the centre of a miniature Milky Way, thousands of tiny dots of light circling us in the black above. Really stunning; Aor's photos came out better than mine, hopefully I'll be able to put them on Ringo. There's a slim chance she might get a position in Melbourne early next year but it's a long shot and we're not assuming anything, so in all likelihood that was that. What we had, brief as it was, was a gift and I'm grateful. But onward, ever onward...

Departure

Finally, I'm going. Sitting in Chiang Mai Airport (ISO-approved, dontchaknow) departure lounge, about to get a late flight back to the capital (getting into downtown about 1am: 'Hellooooo scammers I'm back! C'mon who wants my money?'.) Flying feels like cheating, but to be honest I've done the route already and a 12-hour coach ride doesn't appeal too much. On from Bangkok to the islands tomorrow with a bit of luck.
Went last night with Aor and some of her chums to see the Yee Peng floating lantern ceremony about 30 mins' drive out of the city: about 50 monks sitting on a raised, lighted dias, chief monk gave a sermon on part of Buddha's life story (no, my Thai isn't that good; Aor told me) then, at his sign, the crowd lit and inflated paper lanterns which they then let float into the night sky in a great glowing mass: beautiful sight, altho I missed the first bit trying to get my godd*mned lantern to inflate (and then trying to make sure it didn't settle on someone's head and get me sued). Moments later the whole sky was lit up with thousands of tiny dots of light, the highest lanterns veering off as they were caught by a higher airstream - looked exactly as if we were at the centre of a miniature galaxy, with a million stars wheeling around us. A nice memory to leave on.
Aor came to the airport say goodbye, tugged the heartstrings but if I hadn't got out soon I don't think I'd have left until I was down to my last baht. Onwards, ever onwards... OK I got a flight to catch, be with you again soon. Take care.

Peace

Sorry to have been away awhile but in truth it's been a fairly quiet few days - I am still CM-bound, but no disasters, in fact quite the opposite. There's a girl. That very pretty one I mentioned from a couple of Fridays ago? She. Obviously time and geography are against us, but for the moment I can safely say there's nowhere I'd rather be. Have been exploring various local nightspots with Aor (in the process giving myself another excuse not to leave by failing to let my ankle heal properly), they're all largely similar to each other and to your average hip-hop/r 'n' b night at home - albeit missing the aggro and fine old English tradition of casual violence, sigh... In fact, the only violence I've seen in my whole month here was in the ring at Thai boxing - people I've mentioned it to seem surprised at my surprise, how tragic. Britain needs a Buddhist Reformation, get on with it someone.
OK gonna sign off here for the moment, sorry to be a bit boring but I'm sure there'll be a fresh catastrophe to report next time. Take care.

[Random Monkey Pun]

Hokay, so... let's see: it'll surprise no one to learn that I'm still in Chiang Mai - but, get this, no disasters recently! Ankle's well on the mend and as a bonus it gives me a new set of colour blotches every morning to marvel at. Although, given recent events, I should probably avoid tempting fate, I've pencilled in Saturday for departure. You listening up there?!
Couple of nights ago I attended what will surely be the most unusual and memorable birthday party I go to for quite some time - I've now seen the inside of another Chiang Mai hospital: I'm doing the rounds, so to speak (sorry). This time there wasn't anything wrong with me - had gone for a drink with the Chiang Mai girl from Friday night when it turned out that a friend of hers, in fact one of the French dudes I'd met then, had been ill with a mystery stomach ailment for four or five days and needed taking to hospital plus general looking-after. Aor (the young lady) asked if I wanted to go along and, not having much else planned, I thought why not? Hospitals are always a laugh after all. Went along with Aor, her sister and French dude's Thai girlfriend and we set ourselves up in his room (the Thai medical system continues to astonish - he got cable tv, dvd player, kitchen facilities, ensuite and, get this, a minibar...plus, best of all, he pushes a button and an attractive young nurse arrives! Might have to look at injuring myself again in the near future). It emerged that it was the girlfriend's birthday, and as she wasn't going to leave him the only option was to get beers, whiskey and snacks from the 7-11 and have our own little party on his balcony: another feature of the room was a superb view of Chiang Mai by night, as if the rest wasn't enough. The staff seemed to have seen it all before; I dare say they have.
Yesterday I went to the zoo which was pretty fun (simple pleasures are the best), quite an impressive collection, inc the bad-assest like tigers (ordinary type plus white Bengals which I hadn't seen before), cougars, crocodiles etc. and the most aaah-inducing like pandas (couldn't quite make myself believe it wasn't a bloke in a suit, they don't look real!). Two slightly rank but amusing moments: firstly, what looked very much like a terrapin gangbang (2 gents on a lady since you ask); secondly, what was indisputably a Rhesus monkey knocking one out - in fact, you might say he was (ready?), quite literally, (brace yourself) spanking the...yep you got it. Absolutely bloody hilarious - sitting on top of a pole, front and centre stage; it was the look on his face that made it: staring into space with a furrowed brow, looked like he was philosophising or brooding on quantum mechanics. Having shared a laugh with the Thai family who were also watching, I beat a hasty retreat before we got the money shot. Did get a couple of photos first though of course, I serve my public.
I'm sure you're all desperate to see them so I'll see if I can sort that out now, take it easy y'all and keep commenting! Love the feedback :o)

We Prescribe the Medicine, But Jesus Christ is the Healer

Someone, somewhere, doesn't want me to leave Chiang Mai. I've had another mishap, but more of that later.

Friday finished very pleasantly, thanks in part to the overwhelming feeling of relief I was filled with for the whole evening, and also to the very pretty Chiang Mai girl (my Dad told me about them) I was chatting to. Engineering student at Chiang Mai Uni; her friends were cool too, couple of French dudes. Talked languages and football 'til the wee hours. Woke up late Saturday, found that I still couldn't get any traveller's cheques as the post office doesn't do them (someone gave me a bum steer) and the banks are closed at weekends - the currency booths only do cash. Will finally get them today hopefully. Spent an hour at the Chiang Mai Arts & Culture Museum to satisfy my conscience, had an excellent veggie curry served out of a banana leaf at a nearby restaurant and decided to go and see more Took while I still could. English guy introduced himself, Mike, nice bloke - combination of lad and sensitive soul, used to be both a flautist and captain of his school rugby team; gave up the former, regrets it now. Various others turned up, some nice, one a bit of a twat - had the Keith Richards '80s headband, clearly fancied himself as Keef, v drunk, kept yelling for Hendrix songs. One of those times when it's embarrassing to be English. Think Took's earned the right not to do requests given by boorish drunken d*ckheads, but he was graciousness itself, said 'So you wanna hear Hendrix?', then pulled out of the bag the most explosive, spine-tingling version of 'Purple Haze' you've ever heard (including the original), complete with 10-minute intro and every trick in the book. The guy didn't say much after that, he couldn't, just looked on in awe. Great moment.

Ended up going back with Mike and an English girl to her guesthouse to play Shithead (inevitable! think somewhere in the world at any one time there are always English backpackers playing that game), more drinks, and so to the mishap... I have now seen the inside of a Thai hospital. But no, it's not what you might be thinking, I haven't got the clap - on the way back home managed to fall over and sprain my ankle, which is now about double its normal size and multi-coloured. Sunday it hurt like a b*tch, so got a friendly taxi driver to take me to McCormick hospital. Must say I was bloody impressed by the service - total time between arriving and leaving, having registered, been seen by the doc and supplied with crutches and drugs, about 20 minutes. And all for about 14 quid. Just like home eh? It's the old missionary hospital and the title of this post is what they print on the pill bags, nice touch.

So... once again, I'm gonna be here for a few more days it seems. And no trekking. Ah well, I'll live. Hope you're all doing OK, take (better) care (than me). More soon.

Friday the 13th

Bloody hell, what a day. All started fairly normally - slight feeling of not having made as much of Chiang Mai as I should (can't be arsed with trekking, rockclimbing etc: far too much like hard work), mild guilt at not having curry for breakfast, wondering where to go next as my original intention is massively flooded - went to get money out, 'Transaction cancelled', "Bugger, why don't they service these cash machines more regularly? Humph, I'll have to trek down to that one outside the 7-11", 'Transaction cancelled', "Er, that's a bit weird, it worked the other day, maybe it's out of cash", next one 'Transaction cancelled'...

By this point I was starting to sweat a bit, more so when I remembered I only had about 190 Baht left on me (under 3 quid), and after another 2 ATMs failed I knew I was in trouble. For the first time here, everything started to seem expensive - 25 baht a minute for an international call to HSBC would have left me with absolutely nothing after a few minutes, couldn't risk it when I knew I'd need a taxi to get anywhere without dying of heatstroke (lugging my rucksack around in a temperature of about 35 degrees); had no traveller's cheques (madness!!), nothing save my belongings, which at the rates people buy for here wouldn't have got me much. Realised if I was to make the call and still be able to eat, get any water, not sleep rough etc., was going to have to find somewhere they would let me do it for free.

Saw in the guidebook that there was a consulate in Chiang Mai on the other side of the city, risked 20 Baht on a taxi ride. Heart sank practically through my boots when I saw the consulate was shut, deeper when I remembered it was Friday and the place wouldn't be open til Monday (the cheapest room here is 100 Baht a night). Tried the British Council next door, more of a place for teaching English than offering aid, without too much confidence - explained the predicament to the Thai girl behind the desk, she mulled it over and vanished upstairs. Came back some time later with a British guy who turned out to be the consul, as it was a bit of a special case they let me use the phone to call HSBC, found out there was no problem with my account so it must be the card (now i remember storing it with my old SIM card, obviously the 2 chips must have scratched together). Unfortunately without a functioning card you can't get cash from any bank in Thailand apart from your own, and there ain't no HSBC in Chiang Mai...

Realised (it's all so screamingly obvious, god how stupid was I?) just how screwed you are on your own in a foreign country with no access to cash where you can't speak the language (it's a bit more difficult to try and tell someone you need to make a reverse-charged international phone call than it is to order a beer) and any means of transport out costs more than you have... leaves you totally dependent on the kindness of strangers. Fortunately this one was very kind, even offered to lend me money out of his own wallet which in the circumstances (wild-eyed, sweaty smelly backpacker turns up out of nowhere almost on point of begging) wasn't short of Christ-like. Finally got through to the card insurance company (to think I almost jacked it in a few years ago as a waste of 20 quid a year) who agreed to adance me money til my new card arrives. Thank heavens for the consul, thank my lucky stars there even is one in Chiang Mai - think he's the only one outside Bangkok - and thank the lord for Western Union!

Have now gone from considering 30p on a taxi ride as a swingeing-but-necessary outlay to having the equivalent of about 10 grand in my pocket in cash. The post office is closed so I can't change it to traveller's cheques til tomorrow - now I'm becoming impossibly paranoid that I'll lose it. Surely not, even today (the irony of the date didn't strike me until I almost had the cash in my hand - think the WU staff were a bit disturbed by the hysterical laughter).

So it seems I'm going to be spending a bit longer in Chiang Mai than I'd anticipated, maybe up to another 2 weeks - I can't go too far as the card's being sent to the consulate. Ah well, perhaps trekking might not be so bad after all...

Latest news

Been in Chiang Mai a couple of days now, quite a cool place and it's nice to finally get my clothes laundered (didn't realise what a girl I was about these things but I was seriously starting to hum; if I were a cartoon - which sometimes feels quite possible - I'd have had flies pictured buzzing round me). Went to see the Foreign Cemetery yesterday; a quiet and affecting sort of place, as cemeteries usually are. Especially so when you see how far from their birthplace some people died: one came from Bexhill-on-Sea, another from Croydon. Little did they know. The previous evening went to a place here called 'Le Brasserie' to check out a guitarist called Took (thank you Lonely Planet, again - I'm up to 5 sightings now). Hot damn! Tony or Paul, if you're reading this, you'd have creamed yourselves... looks like an Asian Frank Zappa, canes a tequila and Marlboro between songs, plays like an Asian Hendrix. Seemed a bit nonplussed at my babbling afterwards. Don't blame him.

Been having a lot of the local speciality here, khao sawy - noodles in a hot meat curry soup with shallots, chinese cabbage, various other things, gorgeous. Went yesterday against my better judgement to the poshest khao sawy place in town, obviously far too expensive for most Thais, playing pan-pipe versions of Bon Jovi on the PA, ugh. Felt so guilty I punished myself by adding the whole extra chilli saucer to it, 5 minutes later the waitress came up to inquire after my health I looked so bad - managed to croak 'Yeah I'm fine' then carried on sweating and snotting (not great for the dignity, chilli). Whoops. In other culinary news, I have now eaten my first locust. And second, and third, almost a whole bag of them in fact (couldn't quite bring myself to finish off the severed head that was left). Had the bag in my hand for about 10 minutes before I got up the courage to put one in my mouth, actually they're not bad; wouldn't rave about it but quite tasty, bit awkward when you get a leg or something stuck between your teeth (apologies to anyone reading this before lunch) but otherwise reasonable. Was feeling quite pleased with my new-found courageousness when it was put into perspective by the sight of a girl of about 5 munching on grubs the size of your finger, don't think you're gonna get them in McD's anytime soon.

Went today to the temple that sounds like an SMS insult, Wat U Mong (had to go when I saw the name) - it's in the forest about 2km west of town, has an international Buddhist meditation centre on the grounds and Buddha figures in a series of tunnels cut into the earth, quite damp and unlit but atmospheric. There's a great figure of the Buddha fasting, they don't spare the details: looks skeletal, you can see the veins and everything. Probably going to check out the thai boxing here tonight, it's a fifth of the price it was in Bangkok. The guide books warn you not to sit in the front row, wonder why? Flying blood? We'll see.

Back with you again soon, take care.

Water, water everywhere

Now that's what I call rain... at a local town festival in Sukhotai last night when the wind started blowing and the Thais started packing up their things. Really should have known what was coming from that but just ambled along as I generally do round here; few spots of rain, then without further warning the heavens just opened. 'Torrential' doesn't do it justice. This was pisstake rain: like someone had just up-ended the sea on my head...lightning flashing every few seconds, and thunder like God revving His Harley. Amazing - within about 5 seconds I might as well have jumped in a swimming pool I was so soaked; wandered down the street laughing, beer still in hand, Thais sheltering at the roadside looking at me as if I were insane. Classic.

In other news, first day in Sukhotai started out frustrating, got worse, then got amazing: got to the historical park near the city, guy offered to rent me a bike - thought 'No, every time anyone's offered me anything here they've been trying to con me' - so I walked, and walked, and walked, realised the place was actually massive and I'd need a bike if I was going to see anything, walked all the way back for about half an hour to sheepishly say yes I would like a bike, and then the fun really began. Rode off and saw a couple of quite nice ruins, and then apparently nothing. Thought this was a bit strange, consulted map, didn't seem to conform to any of the roads I was seeing, rode around a bit more, still couldn't see anything, rode around a bit longer, realised I was back at the first ruin I'd seen, rode on... this went on for about 2 1/2 hours, during which time I was beginnning to curse sodding stupid ruins, Thailand, bicycles and most of all my own ever-reliable lack of any sense of direction, and was heading back in a state of total disgust to hand the bike back and go home, when there it was - right over the ****ing road from the bike shop, big fat ruins literally 30 yards away. Even by my standards that was blind.

And then everything got better: the next 90 minutes the best in my whole time here so far. Ruins just gorgeous, and as in Lop Buri I virtually had the place to myself apart from the staff and stray dogs (all over the place here). Sat on a mini-pier, dangled my feet in the water, looked at Wat Sa Si over the lake (I've uploaded the pics, click either of the links in the previous posts) and felt pretty blissful. When I got back to Sukhotai found the festival going on (same one I went to last night) in honour of the rains (it's a Buddhist event as well). They had long-boat racing on the river, about 30 blokes to a boat, at night and going like the clappers, pretty thrilling; they also had a load of food stalls featuring dishes from the town's local producers, get in! Stuffed myself silly of course. Firework display finished things off in style.

Yesterday went to Si Satchanalai historical park, about 60km from Sukhotai - not as spectacular but still interesting, when it's dry the place will be really good but as it is the ground's so damp you can't go far from the road. That's one of the reasons people don't come so much now - I'd still say off-season is better (the lack of other tourists really makes a difference to these places, to see them crawling all over the ruins would be dispiriting) but obviously it has disadvantages too. Another is the roads: some out of Sukhotai were washed out - the driver today had to try 3 different routes before we managed to get out - although it did make for an interesting bus ride to the ruins: getting splashed by the bow wave from another bus as it passed us, seeing kids swimming at the side of the road (it was that deep), thinking this ain't quite the 358 to Bromley...

So to today: finally got to Chiang Mai, gonna check out a couple more temples tomorrow and maybe attend a lecture in the evening if it's on and I'm feeling cultural. And no, no more disasters or near ones recently... I'll try to keep it that way. OK my stomach's rumbling and there's gotta be a curry round here with my name on it, speak again soon.

Photos

OK those photos I promised you - one of these days I might be in one of them. Look here. Take care.

Pastures New

Well hello again, it's been a little while and much has happened.

Am now in Phitsanulok, about 180 miles or so north of Bangkok. Glad to get out of that place, it was eating me and my wallet alive... suddenly everything's about half the price it was there.

The last night in Bangkok I spent with Yo at a club in the basement of a posh hotel in Siam Square (the flash shopping area), watching the capital's beautiful people and quite a lot of foreign guests butt-shaking to a half Thai/Israeli (I think)/American hip-hop crew rapping over sped-up pop and reggae. A particular highlight was the Eminem-lookalike lead rapper, dressed in a Celtic shirt, rapping in what I think was Hindi... makes perfect sense really.

Got to Lopburi the day before yesterday and was almost immediately mugged... by monkeys! They're one of the 2 most famous things about the place, and one of the reasons why I went. But let me state unequivocally and for the record, they are little ****s - made the mistake of putting my bag and water bottle down and within 30 secs had 3 of the little sods on my bag and my bottle disappearing over the horizon. The attendant guy had to chase them off, I was too scared of getting bitten (they've attacked tourists before and I don't fancy another rabies jab anytime soon - and yes obviously I'm also the proverbial big girl's blouse). It is quite a weird sight seeing them crawling all over 400-year-old ruins (the other famous thing about Lop Buri, and why I'd still recommend it) and over telephone wires, lamp-posts, buildings etc, but after the first 5 minutes the novelty wears off and Michael from Alan Partridge's approach starts to look appealing. The ruins are fantastic though, especially those of the old royal palace. 17th century, gorgeous red brick and stucco set amid beautifully-tended lush green grass - went in the morning and almost had the place to myself: very peaceful and a great antidote to the frenzy that seems to characterize a lot of city life here. Photos up soon.

Got here by express train yesterday, through a vast waterscape - the central plain, the lowest part of the country (sea level), water almost as far as the eye can see with tiny villages and buildings on stilts appearing out of nowhere and disappearing again in a flash.

Last night was a bit 'eventful' again - saw the night market, tried to find a bar recommended in Lonely Planet (ubiquitous here: it's been a bit galling seeing 2 other backpackers with exactly the same book clutched in their hands, going to exactly the same places) when I got called over by a bunch of guys sitting around in one of what look like security guard lodges that you see all over the place here. They were very friendly, sat me down, gave me a beer, chatted about their king and football, didn't know where the bar I asked about was but all seemed to be going well - then the oldest one suddenly came out with 'I don't want to sleep alone tonight'. I said 'Ah'. The main chatter kissed me on both cheeks (of my face I mean) and said in broken English that they loved me. Which ordinarily would be nice, but by this point I was, not to put too fine a point on it, sh*tting it.

Said I had to go and the older guy tried to pay me to stay, literally shoving notes at me, but I managed to make my excuses and squeeze out. To be fair to them they didn't try anything else, thank Christ - 5 blokes and I don't even know the Thai for 'Help!', I wouldn't have stood a chance - and I scarpered, honour and sphincter intact. Bit of a close call though, would rather be ripped off for a billion baht by ping-pong merchants than get gang-banged...

Today I'll be studiously avoiding that area and checking out another couple of wats (temples) - they're supposed to have the second most famous Buddha in the country here - then getting the bus to Sukhotai for more ruins (I love 'em). More when I have it. Bye for now.

Photojournalisme

OK finally got some photos uploaded, of the Grand Palace etc. and a few of MBK - have a look here.

Narrow Escape

Is there anyone here who isn't trying to scam me? Apart from monks, I mean. I think they're safe. This definitely isn't the place to come if you have a horror of aggressive salespeople - almost got my arm twisted into buying (a) a suit (b) jewellery (c) package tour, none of which I wanted, all cos I got a tour from a tuk-tuk (those sort of 3-wheel taxis you see in all the pictures of Bangkok) driver. To be fair I got to see some pretty cool temples too, and he was honest enough to admit that he gets vouchers from shops if he brings tourists there, but still...

Ah well, thank Buddha I was sober; I'd probably be putting desperate calls in to my parents and camping outside Western Union by now otherwise. Did finally manage to get up at a reasonable hour, and saw the Grand Palace and Temple of the Emerald Buddha this morning. Definitely worth seeing - a whole complex of very ornate and impressive royal and religious buildings, must have been about 40 of them in a square mile (appropriate: everything in this city seems crammed in). The Emerald Buddha is only 75cm high but the atmosphere surrounding it is quite awe-inspiring, even intimidating: when you enter the temple that houses it you have to remove your shoes, sit down with your feet facing backwards (it's a major insult to point your feet at anyone and obviously several times worse if it's at the nation's holiest shrine), be quiet, not take photos - I was terrified I'd sneeze or fart at the wrong moment and get arrested... Not this time fortunately.

Hopefully this'll be my last night in Bangkok for a while - with a bit of luck I'm getting a train to Lopburi, a few miles north, tomorrow, and from then on up to Sukhotai and Chiang Mai over the next week or so. At least that's the plan, but then not much has gone according to plan so far so who knows?

Stardom beckons

OK you'll be glad to hear no more disasters, although I still seem to be spending money at quite a rate. Still haven't managed to get up before 4pm so still haven't seen the Grand Palace or any Wats, but I have been shopping... god I sound interesting don't I? Actually in this case the place was worth seeing: MBK (Mahboonkrong, says 'ere) shopping centre, in the new and very space-age, neon-lit part of town, a world away from the Khao San Road area. The shopping centre is absolutely gigantic: kept getting lost (me!) amid all the hundreds of stalls they cram into every level, packed with mobiles - the Thais seem mad on them - and Liverpool shirts - the Reds could be Thailand's second national team, they're so popular here. Am sure my dad will be pleased to hear of the Thais' good taste.

Quite a funny experience yesterday: wandering aimlessly around when I stumbled across the Democracy Monument - built in 1939 to commemorate the introduction of a constitution and end of absolute monarchy (although the king is still revered here: you see his picture everywhere and apparently up country he's still considered a god), 4 massive wings surrounding a golden casket containing a copy of the original constitution (there have been about 17 since - they go with the coups) . I was walking around looking at it when I found myself in the middle of a film set - they were filming an Indian romance, the (highly gorgeous) love interest leaving the hero forlorn at the roadside. They didn't seem to mind gawpers like me hanging around and after a while I got chatting with one of the crew. Rikesh, from Mumbai. Nice chap, making a 'making of' documentary about the film (apparently to be called 'Rubaru'). We talked about cricket and about the film, and he even filmed a bit of me wittering about Bangkok, so who knows? This time next year if you look on the bonus disc of an Indian-market DVD you might just see me... now there's fame for you...

Righto, another beer and then bed I think. Sense has to prevail this time. Night.

An Englishman Abroad

Hmm, well it's been eventful... Following the last post guess what I did? I must have had a particularly burning desire to be a cliche but after several bottles too many of Singha and a massage (not dodgy although nudity is required, lovely stuff), suddenly the guy in the Chelsea shirt's (I should've known) entreaties to come and see his lovely girls seemed more plausible... Yep, I know, I know, exactly what everyone counselled me against, and of course I got bled dry in return for seeing a very bored-looking girl do the usual with items of table tennis equipment. Not recommended.

Wasn't all bad though, I did meet a very nice girl called Yo who I saw again yesterday (for the record, it's not what you're thinking: very innocent and she's a genuinely lovely girl - she was trying to get me to stop spending my money, as sure a guarantee of honesty as you could find in this place. And no, she wasn't the one with the ping pong balls.)

Went to check out a Thai boxing match yesterday but they wanted 2000 Baht (about 30 quid) for it, apparently for a Thai it's about 100. Daylight robbery. So sod that, went to Chinatown instead which was cool - absolutely mad, the whole place is taken up with a massive street market where you can buy anything and everything - boltcutters next to car horns next to chillis next to cheesy 70s MOR records, mobile phones, etc etc etc. Rather a surreal moment: a guy selling hifis had Kraftwerk's 'The Model' playing at top volume, and it worked perfectly...

OK, as I seem to have developed a problem getting out of bed before 5pm my options are a bit limited, so had better go and do something while I can. Take care, more soon.